Cards, loans and the payoff math

Listing what you owe isn’t a verdict on how you got here. It’s the tending of what’s yours to tend — and you can’t tend what you haven’t counted.

Much of the counting happens for you. Cards and loans at a connected bank arrive on their own, usually with their balance, rate and minimum payment. Anything else — a private loan, a card at an unsupported bank, money owed to a person — you add as an account: Accounts → Add account, then pick the kind of debt it is. There is no separate “add a debt” step, because a debt is just an account you owe money on. Once it has a balance it appears under Accounts → Debts.

What to check on each one

Your bank doesn’t always report a rate, and the payoff math is only as good as the rate it has. Open each debt and confirm the APR and the minimum payment. These are the two numbers that decide the date.

A 0% card is not free forever

If a card is on a promotional rate, set when the promotion ends and what rate takes over. Left blank, the app assumes the rate is permanent and hands you a debt-free date that quietly never accounts for the reversion.

Store cards often go further: the promo interest is waived only if the balance clears in time, and back-charged in full if it does not. If yours works that way, mark it — the projection then carries the whole back-charge instead of pretending it can’t happen.

Then look at the date

Your dashboard shows the month you finish. Hold that date loosely — it isn’t a scoreboard, it’s a horizon. Every debt that clears frees money that was spoken for, and money set free is money you can be generous with. To decide what more you can send, set your Debt Payoff Goal — the extra you commit to is saved, and trying a different order costs nothing.